[claire]Himalayan Chocolate High

[Mark Holmes]

Greetings lovelies,

Well, this amazing journey to India is rapidly drawing to a close, though of course the story of Tara's life and 
death will continue to make waves for many years to come.  I'm actually sitting in Kathmandu at the moment, 
taking a breather from some work and shopping, and trying to decide if I deserve that piece of carrot cake I 
saw in the shop window.  The Nepalis bake amazing cakes and pastries.... Kathmandu is really like a planet 
unto itself, and it's quite easy to spend time here.

I've been writing only brief notes lately, but perhaps it's time to catch up a bit on the final stages of the 
Pilgrimage to Infinity.  After our time passing through Prayaga, Varanasi and Gaya, we headed back to Delhi 
for a day at the Sivananda center and to prepare for our trip north.  The next morning we took the train to 
Haridwar, site of the Kumbh Mela, a gathering of something like 7 million people every 12 years.  No, that 
number isn't a joke.  Do a search for Kumbh Mela if you're interested in learning more.

Next it was north to famous Rishikesh by taxi; we stopped briefly at the Divine Life Society, one of the 
organizations founded or inspired by Swami Sivananda.  Turns out one of his disciples also started the Bihar 
School of Yoga... that guy sure had some influence in the world.  After lunch at the Madras Cafe we continued 
onward to Uttarkashi and finally arrived at the Sivananda ashram in Netala.

Unlike Neyyar Dam, this ashram can only hold about 30 people, is situation on the bank of the Ganga at 
about 3,500 feet, and is surrounded by lovely little villages and rice fields.  It has a very friendly, family-like 
atmosphere, and we fell in love immediately.  A Teacher's Training Course was just beginning, so we were 
able to spend some time with the new students as they arrived.  We stayed just outside the ashram at small 
guest house, and frequently made popcorn on the little leaky stove in the kitchen.

After a couple of days of rest and good ashram food, we drove north for 90 amazing kilometers to Gangotri, 
literally the end of the road following the Bagarathi river (recognized as the source of the Ganga) up up and 
up.  The gorge cut by the river over millennia is truly amazing -- clearly one of the most beautiful sites I've 
ever seen.  Gangotri is up over 9,000 ft in elevation, so it felt a great deal like being back home in the high 
Sierra's: same trees, rocks, brush, smells... it was very soothing for my soul to be there and feel at home.  In 
fact Gangotri from a slight distance looks like a 19th century mining town, except for the big Hindu temple in 
the middle of course...

The following morning found us with a couple of sweet porters on the trail into Gangotri National Park, and 
hopping from tea-stall to tea-stall to revive our sleepy legs.  We climbed about 3,000 feet over the next 14 km 
and slept in a little area called Boujbassa (sp???).  This is about 4km from the Gangotri glacier itself, so 
naturally we decided to take a dip in the river.  Ram and I (a friend we met in Kerala) hopped in and almost 
immediately jumped back out screaming like frightened school kids.  The water is probably about 36 or 37 
degrees, though Chrisandra walked in like it was 80, and stayed submerged over her waist for almost 10 
minutes.  You've simply never seen a more serene face, or composed demeanor... it was really remarkable to 
watch her praying (and putting Ram and me to shame!).  Jessica also took a quick dip though stayed in a bit 
longer than the boys........ ;-)

After a nasty, headache-filled sleepless night at around 12,500 ft, we slowly dragged ourselves the rest of the 
way up the hill to the mouth of the glacier itself and spend an amazing couple of hours exploring and enjoying 
the area.  Of course Chrisandra bathed again, though we couldn't match the feat this time.  Filling our water 
bottles with the precious, clearest, cleanest, most powerfully charged water on earth, we turned back and 
hoofed it all the was back to Gangotri.  In the case of Jessica and Chrisandra, it was literally hoofing as an 
injury put Jessica in the saddle of a pack horse, and Chrisandra just wanted to ride a horse again.  Gangotri 
was so beautiful we decided to rest another day there and soak up the mountain air and powerful feel of the 
area.

Returning to Netala we spent the evening chopping vegetables, cheese, ginger, etc. to help prepare for the 
bhandara.  The feast inspired over 90 swamis to turn up in all their wonderful manifestations of orange and 
bless us with an hour of bhajans and tolerate our western stares and photo taking.  Robert and Jessica 
applied powder to their brows and rupees to their pocketbooks (both by custom) to support their spiritual 
pursuits.  Then we filled their bellies with tasty north Indian cuisine, which of course we were able to share 
afterwards.

This feast was the last step our our journey in Tara's honor, and that afternoon Kimbo and Robin returned to 
Rishikesh and onward to Delhi for the flight back home.  Chrisandra, Robert, Jessica and I stayed another 2 
days before spending a day in Rishikesh (shopping!), and also onward to Delhi.  As I write this Robert and 
Jessica are likely in Agra visiting the amazing Taj Mahal, and Chrisandra and I are shopping and eating our 
way through Kathmandu.  Our yoga teacher Andrey Lappa arrives here tomorrow with a yoga/trekking group, 
so it will be great to spend some time with him.

After this it's back to Delhi where Chrisandra and I will part ways.  I'll join Robert and Jessica for the night 
flight to Singapore where I'll hop off and detour to Malaysia for a few days before returning home on the 6th.  

It's completely impossible for me to sum up what this trip has meant to me, and just how powerful it has been.  
If you've been following my e-mails over the past 3 months (3 months!), then you've certainly gotten a taste of 
it.  It's somewhat unbelievable for me to consider returning home, and yet I'm really ready for the comforts of 
friends and family.  It really feels right to go home.

So that's it for now.  My deep love, gratitude, affection and sincere thanks to everyone for staying in touch 
and being a part of this amazing tale; as I said, it's clearly not over, so you'll probably hear from me again 
before too long.  In the meantime, be well.

Much love,

Mark