[claire]Pilgrimage beyond infinity
Mark Holmes
stooge@pranamaya.com
Wed, 8 Sep 2004 22:18:12 -0700
Hi everyone,
I'm sitting in Delhi at Visual Technologies India, Pvt. Ltd. It turns=20=
out that this is the only facility in the country that is authorized to=20=
repair Panasonic professional cameras, and it happened to be 10 km from=20=
the Delhi Sivananda center. My camera had been acting up during the=20
last week, so it's kind of a miracle that this place is here, as=20
there's much more to shoot in the coming 2 weeks. Cross your fingers!
I only mention this because by some blessing the camera worked=20
flawlessly during each and every one of the ceremonies that we=20
performed for Tara on the pilgrimage=97and very unreliably the rest of=20=
the time. It allowed me to capture what was really important, and it=20
'took rest' for the remainder. I'm grateful it worked when it really=20
needed to.
So this is just a circuitous way of saying that we've finished the main=20=
part of the pilgrimage, and our dear friend Tara is fully at rest at=20
the bottom of the Ganges and at the feet of the Lord. We left her last=20=
physical remains floating down the Ganges from a boat in the middle of=20=
Varanasi, the holiest city in India. It's said that if you die in=20
Varanasi you get a one-way ticket to full liberation, so having your=20
remains scatter there gives a similar effect. The ceremony was simple=20=
and beautiful, and took place entirely on the boat. Robert and Jessica=20=
performed the ritual (it's been good for me to step back a little bit=20
and let Tara's family step in), and I was free to videotape and capture=20=
more beautiful images of this ever evolving story. We scattered=20
flowers, a photograph of her from her pilgrimage on this same route=20
last year, and of course her ashes in the clay pot that I received=20
still warm from the cremation, and carried all the way north. Jessica=20=
took charge in Delhi, and carried her sister the rest of the way. Tara=20=
stayed afloat for quite a long time, choosing to float closer to the=20
ghats along the shore and further downstream before submerging quietly=20=
below the water. Lovely.
Next it was on to Bodhgaya, the place of the Buddha's enlightenment,=20
and final pujas in Gaya nearby. Again Jessica and Robert performed the=20=
Beli puja; but this final ceremony involved 3 separate pujas in=20
different places within the temple, and in many ways was the most=20
elaborate and beautiful of all. It felt like a fitting final send off=20=
for our friend, sister, niece... and hopefully Jessica and Robert can=20=
share some of the story from their perspective.
After two more days in Varanasi resting, visiting temples, eating=20
amazing Ras Malai, we're back in Delhi. We have a free day today and=20
will leave tomorrow early for Haridwar, Rishikesh and Uttarkashi. =20
After that it's trekking up to Gomukh, then back down for the bhandara=20=
(swami feast) on the 18th around midday. It's looking like 75 or so=20
swamis...... should be lots of orange. After that we all start going=20
our separate ways to continue our own journeys.
I've booked my own tickets home, after a stopover in Kathmandu and in=20
Penang, in both cases to visit friends. It was pretty strange to put a=20=
final date on my return, and an end to this part of this story. It=20
feels as though I've lived lifetimes in these last couple of months,=20
and I know this story will continue for quite a while. There's a=20
wealth of stories, photographs and video documenting Tara's life and=20
death here; we'll see about putting that into some kind of form after I=20=
return home.
That's it for now. More stories to come, of course.
Much love,
Mark=